In Sense and Sensibility 1996, Kate Winslet as Marianne wears a charming straw sun bonnet as she recuperates from her illness. When I ran across the fashion plate of a morning dress from The Gallery of Fashion, 1794-1798, I was immediately struck by the similarity, although the brim in the fashion plate is more elaborate.
Detail of a morning gown and balloon bonnet, Heideloff, The Gallery of Fashion
The magazine described the head wear as a “balloon bonnet of wicker, trimmed with broad lace. The front hair is in curls, the hind hair is turned up.” I suspect that Lydia Bennet would have wrapped ribbons around her capote much as in the above image.
Kate Winslet’s capote is simpler, but equally charming. Capotes, or scoop-shaped bonnets, were popular in the early Regency and first made their appearance in the 1790s. The hats accommodated the modish hair styles of that era, which were short or piled on top of the head.
Bonnet, 1805-1810. Image@The Victoria & Albert Museum
Generally made to be worn outdoors, capotes were also worn as evening headwear early in the 19th century. This evening capote is elaborately trimmed.
Infant bonnet, 1820. Image @Metropolitan Museum of Art
The charming bonnet was made for an infant. Click here to read the description. The image below shows a modern interpretation of a Regency era capote bonnet. (Living With Jane)
Image @Living With Jane
The shape of the Capote bonnet changed as hairdos changed, and the hat crown shifted to accommodate the increased height of swept up hair. The poke, or brim, also became larger over time. This definition describes the Victorian capote: Close fitting bonnet with rigid brim, either of straw or boned into shape. Soft, shirred crown , ribbon bows tied under the chin, Victorian 19 c. with deep ruffle in back. Also poke bonnet, fanchon, scuttle bonnet, sun bonnet. – Glossary of hats, Village Hat Shop.
View images of the Victorian capote here http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80044650 and here http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80044657. You can see the vast difference between the two styles, yet they are still capotes.
This link leads to instructions for making a Capote Beguin, or Edwardian Era bonnet.
Make Your Own Regency Bonnet
- Purchase supplies:http://www.hatsupply.com/bonnets.htm
- Leko’s Regency Bonnets: http://regencysa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=sundries&action=print&thread=805
More on the topic:
Great article. I learned a new word. Was ‘capote’ a contemporary word during Regency time?
Serena Dyer, who is very well versed in costuming, wrote to me on my Twitter account, saying: The term capote came from the French for hood, hence the scooped shape, differentiating it from the poke etc.
I love Kate Winslett as Marianne. I think she did so well playing this character and made it so real I almost believe Kate in reality is Mariannie in many aspects Marianne had been famous for. Love to see her again wearing this beautiful straw bonnet which reminds me I am free to watch “Sense & Sensibility” over and over again :-) I just wanted to share my passion for this movie, book and Marianne’s resemblance to… myself. I consider myself Marianne and often try to learn from her mistakes. I especially favour the scene of Mariannes recovery. She gaines wisdom and distance. Sit in this beautiful scenery she listens to fab voice of Alan Rickman as Col. Brandon while the sunlight plays through the straws of her bonnet. She is steady and perhaps a bit sad yet already mature. A true reincarnation of restless soul.
Thanks so much. What charming hats.
Capote. Wonderful! I’ve added a new word to my Regency dictonary.
These hats are so pretty! Thanks for sharing.
I have learnt quite a lot. A capote is a new world. Lovely and thank you.
Interesting. One can see where the cloche hat of the 1920’s had its origins. I spent a good amount of time when I had long hair wishing for the return of the bonnet; now that my hair is shorter (mid-back instead of thigh-length), my hat collection has grown substantially. I covet the hat Marianne wears…
Please clear up one thing for me: is capote the bonnet pronounced like Truman Capote the man? Or does it have another pronunciation? Thanks for the post. It was quite informative. I had forgotten about that Marianne bonnet.
From what I understand, capote is pronounced both ways. I say it the French way, with the e silent – capot.
I have always loved that bonnet in S&S, and now at last I know what it’s called!
Tikabelle, I was reminded of cloche hats, too! I think it’s appropriate to connect Marianne with the 1920s. Something about her breaking the mold of proper feminine behavior…
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